Zurich, 4 days

Zurich labours under the misconception that it is nothing more than a sterile banking city – don't believe a word of it. True, Zurich plays home to one of the largest stock exchanges in the world and is the financial motor of Switzerland itself, but step back from the markets and share prices and you'll find an arty, trend-conscious and vibrant city. Just hang in Zurich West for a while. Its former warehouses, viaducts and ship building caverns have been converted into art centres, funky bars and quirky boutiques. Along Langstrasse, the city’s notorious red light district, you’re now as likely to take home a chic handbag crafted by an emerging designer as you are a piece of skirt. Zurich’s character booms from the speakers of the annual Street Parade, a mammoth techno festival that weaves through the city with DJs and minimally-clad dancers on floats. There isn’t a banker’s tie in sight. If there is in the pretty east bank quarter of Niederdorf, it’s loosened. These medieval streets are abuzz with cafés on corners, trendy taprooms and world-class restaurants. It’s easy to while away an afternoon just absorbing its laidback atmosphere, especially in summer when the riverside take on a beach vibe. Winter is special too. Under the spell of snow, the cobbled alleyways, fountains, lakeside promenades and stunning architecture of the Old Town were made for the stroke of an artist’s brush. This is when one of Europe’s best Christmas markets rolls into town and the warming citruses and cinnamons of the glühwein (mulled wine) stalls fill the air. Shoppers will be in their element here at any time of year. Zurich’s flashy side is evident in the upmarket designer boutiques of Bahnhofstrasse, the city’s main shopping drag. But this is no longer a city for the smart set alone; there are plenty of unusual shops to be discovered down hidden streets. Sitting astride the River Limmat and the northern tip of Lake Zurich, Mother Nature certainly smiles down on Switzerland’s biggest city. Architects were courteous in their additions too - just check out the Fraumünster and Grossmünster churches, which face each other across the river. Then, when you’ve had enough of the city’s diverse array of restaurants, first-rate museums and pulsing nightlife, there’s always the nearby Uetliberg mountain or a boat trip on Lake Zurich to enjoy – if only to catch your breath before diving back into the city’s delights again.